JERUSLAEM: THE ANCIENT SACRED CITY
The sacred city form the Mount Of Olives
Early Friday the 12th 7:00am I left Paris at Charles De Gaulle via Al El to Tel Aviv. The shuttle came for me at 4:00am and yes, I didn’t get much sleep. At check-in I was questioned why I was traveling to Israel and my bags were opened and a thorough search ensued. The flight itself was uneventful having been sandwiched in between two men, both dressed in the traditional black of the Jewish Orthodox Faith. I slept practically the entire trip.
Arrival at 12:30pm, luggage retrieval at Tel Aviv Ben Gurion and currency exchange went without a hitch. Took a taxi to the Vital Hotel in downtown and rested for the rest of the day.
The next morning promptly at 7:30 the van arrived to take me one a 10 hour guided trip to Jerusalem. There were 6 tourists and one very knowledgeable guide named David who made the trip. I had booked the trip via the Grey Line website two weeks in advance.
I’m not going to go into great detail about the tour, but rather post some additional comments later. My impressions were that it is a very crowed place where the peoples of three major religions are made, by circumstances, to get along. As we all know, it this has been the site of a major war when the State of Israel was founded, and again in 1967 during the Six Day War when Israel took the city from Jordan.
Among the high points of the tour were visits to the Wailing Wall, the most sacred place for those of the Jewish faith and the Dome of the Rock above, one of Islam’s most holy sites, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, one of Christianity’s holiest sites. All were worth experiencing, although only the Islamic are allowed to the gilded golden Dome of the Rock. The Old City literally hasn’t changed much in 3000 years’ although the Dome of the Rock was built following Mohamed’s time in the 600’s.
Before coming, I had mentioned to friends that I’d be pleased to take written requests for intercessions, including one from a Rabbi Ian know and insert them into the cracks between the stones of the Wailing Wall. I was able to do this among many others who were praying here at this time which was on a Saturday, the Jewish Sabbath. I also offered a few Baha’i prayers as well.
Along with many others, I have to be unsettled about this place however. For all its religious meaning, it is unfortunate that there isn’t more of a sense of the sacred. Its disturbing that the Christians can’t agree among themselves as to who keeps the keys to the edifice of Christ’s tomb, and have to rely on a holy person of Islam to keep the order. It is also disturbing that the holy walk of the Via Dolorsoa, the very site of Christ’s bearing the cross to Calvary, is lined with shops and eating places of all types. The din of the hawkers selling their wares takes so much from the sacredness of this “way of the cross.”
But, all this aside, there are some beautiful and remarkably preserved historic and sacred treasures her, and this place was well worth visiting. It is very much a place for humanity, and is a precious place in the world.
For now, I’m just going to put up these few shots, and future postings will have more. Tomorrow, Sunday it’s on to Haifa in the evening, and the onset of my nine day Baha’i Pilgrimage on Monday.
The Dome of the Rock above the Wailing Wall
Prayers offered
Along the Via Dolorsoa
The Church of the Holy Sepulcher
Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher
PARIS: THE APARTMENT OF ‘ABDUL-BAHA
Thursday brought cloudy skies and cold temperatures, but I managed to do fairly well getting to the Island in the Seine and visit Notre Dame and then make my way to the Louvre. Following a stay of about two hours viewing the world famous art, I made my way to the Seine west bank and to a taxi stand where I gave the driver a note with the address, 4 avenue de Camoëns, very close to Eifel tower.
As I had a photo taken off a website, I knew what to look for, and it was just before sunset when I arrived. The building is of the art deco style, that was very popular in Paris during the first decades of the 1900’s. As I mentiond before, I couldn’t go inside as it wasn’t Saturday.
I found the apartment door very easily, and stood there for a few minutes of quite reflection…could actually envision the door opening and the Master himself emerging.
- The Paris Baha’i Center
My day began in Paris on February 10th by receiving directions from the hotel concierge about the best way to get to the Paris Baha’i Center at 45 rue Pergolèse, which I located via mapquest to be near the Arc de Triopmhe. A walk of about a mile or so took me to the metro stop that took me straight north of the Arc, and I easily found the street.
A few more blocks along this curved street brought me to a modest three story building with a fenced-in courtyard. I rang the bell and was greeted by a very pleasant lady named Edel, who it turned out is the librarian of the National Spiritual Assembly. She knew English so we were able to converse well.
After introducing myself, and explaining the reason for my visit, she gave me a map of the Cimetière Parisien de Pantin with the location of the grave site. She also suggested that I visit the apartment of Abdul-Baha who stayed for quite a length of time in Paris in 1911. The Paris Baha’is open the apartment for visits on Saturdays only, and unfortunately as I was flying to Tel Aviv early Friday, I would miss the opportunity. The apartment is very close to the Eifel Tower, so I thought that I could at least visit the building.
I left shortly after giving Edel a packet of cards of my art as a gift to the Community, and proceeded toward the Champs-Élysées and came upon a deli that offered sandwiches and bottled water. I made a purchase and ate sitting on a street side bench. It was starting to snow, and as began to walk towards Arc, it was really coming down…very wet making walking slippery.
I went to get to the metro to get me to the Paris suburb of Pantin, about 20 kilometers away. My metro pass from the travel agent worked just fine and following about a half hour’s ride was there. When I got off., it was cold and snowing. First I starting walking using the maquest map, but couldn’t figure out things, so I went back to the train station. I managed to tell one of the station attendants that I needed a cab and he said I’d have to call for one and he gave me a number.
Oh boy, I can’t speak French and phone someone up for a cab? No way could I do that. I asked the attendant if he could phone for one for me and he said no. It was then that I started to worry. Here I’d come all this way to make this pilgrimage to this site, and I can’t get to it!
Then a miracle, a cab came by as I was standing outside the station! The driver couldn’t speak a word of English but understood where I wanted to go when I gave him the map that Edel had given me in Paris. We made our way through the streets with a light snow falling and got to cemetery. There were at least two funerals occurring at the same time and we just had to make our way slowly up to the gate. Both internments Jewish as the men were all wearing yarmulkes. The guard at the gate told the driver where the site was, and we slowly made our way through crowed the parked corteges to the place 43. I quickly searched for the word wait “attende” in the little English-French dictionary I brought, and the driver understood.
The cemetery section had about a dozen rows, of about a dozen graves each. The individual graves had stone slab covers and I knew that Thomas Breakwell’s was un-marked so I searched the one that had no lettering on it. After walking through each row, I found two with no markings. I had to make a decision quickly as to which one I should pay homage to, and decided one where I placed the rose pedals I brought with me from the Guardian’s grave on the stone. I then recited the Master’s tablet to Thomas Breakwell.
I was only there for a short time as the cabbie had his meter running, and it was getting colder. I’m still not sure if I was at the right grave site or not, but knew that if not, it had to be very close. I feel that the prayer was properly offered in memory to this soul who was held in such deep reverence by ‘Abdul-Baha.
- The road to the Thomas Breakwell grave site and what I hope is his grave.
The trip back to the metro station was spent in gridlock, but we made it before dark and the train ride back to Paris went smoothly. Tomorrow, God permitting, I would visit ‘Abdul-Baha’s apartment.
PARIS: THE SITES
The next day, Tuesday February 9, traveled via EuroStar Chunnel to Paris. Had one glitch… The cabbie left me off at the wrong station, at King’s Cross, not Kings Cross St. Pancras Station about two long blocks away. Towing luggage and not knowing where you’re supposed to go makes it hard on a guy. After asking for directions three times, I finally made it, at 10:20 am, too late to go through security and get on board the 10:30. Was able to change ticket and made it out of London on the 12:30 train. Went first class at travel agent’s recommendation and had a lunch of shepherd’s pie…yum.
EuroStars are bullet trains, and it seemed like we were only under the English Channel for about 20 minutes or so. Memories of my modern architectural history class came back as we got off at the the Gare du Nord Station.
What can anyone say about Paris? Along with most, I have to say that it is the most fabulous city in the world! Wide avenues with terrific vistas, the Champs-Élysées has no comparison, not Park Avenue or Michigan Avenue to be 
sure. Fantastic architecture everywhere well preserved, and friendly people…the only down side is that they drive like maniacs and you have to be extra cautious crossing the streets! The food, café dinners were not expensive and a delight for the palette, as were the deli sandwiches.
A place for lovers? Yes definitely, its everything all the romantics have said about it. Walked from my hotel, the Queen Marie to the Notre Dame and the Louvre on Thursday morning. Got some good shots, and in the Louvre they let you photograph…even though there were signs that said no flash, people were firing away anyway. Saw the Mona Lisa from a distance. They won’t let you come within 20 feet of it.
The weather for walking wasn’t the greatest, about high 20’s. At the Eifel tower it was so windy that they closed the upper two stops. You could only go up to the first.
All in all, a great three days, which weren’t enough. Enjoy these shots
Ramin Khadem and I hooked up via cell phone as I was walking back to the Amos Grove tube station about 2:00pm. We set a place to meet, right next to Piccadilly Circus in downtown. The tube ride was about 45 minutes and then following a few frustrating attempts to get my cell phone to make connections I finally was able to reach him while standing in the lobby of the Ritz Hotel. He met me outside in a few minutes and we walked to a coffee house where we got caught up after 42 years. Our Urbana-Champaign university days together was a turning point in my life back then. It was very good for me to renew his friendship, and we will definitely keep in touch with each other.
Now the daylight was dimming and Ramin informed me about which would be the best way to experience London walking. We then parted at his tube stop, and I was on my own. It’s one of the things I like to do, just walk and experience things, look for the best photo opportunities and get lost with the people on the street…yet cautiously.
One of the first places I came across was the National Gallery, an art museum with some of the world’s finest pieces on exhibit. As it was open until six, so I made it to the entrance and admission was free. So I got an hour to wander and take in the paintings by Turner, Van Gogh, Vermeer, Rembrandt, among many, a good unexpected experience.
Trafalgar Square with its column with Admiral Lord Nelson (the savior of the British Empire in its war with the French) was right south of the National gallery. Then I made my way down to Big Ben and the Thames. Took many hand held night shots with high iso settings along the way. After a salmon sandwich at a small health food deli, I took a cab back to the hotel. Then I text messaged Ben and Ryan to see who won the Super Bowl…Surprise, New Orleans! Hurray for the underdog!
LONDON: A VISIT TO THE GUARDIAN’S GRAVE
From the onset of planning my pilgrimage to the Baha’i World Center and its shrines in Haifa Israel, I tried to think of ways to maximize the travel with a carefully planned trip that included cities and sites that were important to me personally. High on the priority list was visiting the resting place of one of the most important personages in the Baha’I World, Shoghi Effendi the Guardian of the Faith.
He was named by his grandfather’ Abdul-Baha’, to succeed him as the head of the Baha’i Faith upon his, passing and he served in this capacity from 1923 until his own passing in 1957 in London. He was interred in London according 
to Baha’i law that stipulates that one is to be buried within a one hour’s journey of the place of their passing, and that is why his resting place is not in Haifa.
New Southgate Cemetery and Crematorium at Amos Grove, a suburb north of London, was easy for me to reach by the London “tube” . It was less than an hour’s journey to the Amos Grove Station and after passing through the exit turnstiles, I came upon a flower shop and purchased two pink roses to lay upon the grave. Then I walked to the cemetery which took about 20 minutes.
The site is immaculate as a carefully attended garden, not unlike the ones I was to experience in Haifa. The marker is an un-fluted marble column and classic Corinthian capitol which supports a world globe with a gilded golden eagle perched on top in the posture of ready to take wing. The eagle had special significance to me, as one who has come to love seeing the great American balds that each winter migrate from the northern tier to winter and fish in the fast flowing Illinois rivers.
I was at this sacred place for a little over an hour and was the only one there and spent about an hour in quiet prayer and meditation. I left one of the roses in a metal vase at a corner with some other flowers in it…the other I took with me.
GETTING TO LONDON
The weather in mid Illinois had cleared following Friday’s 4 inch snowfall and the roads were in good shape by noon on Saturday the 6th. Made it to my in-laws by 2:00pm as they were kind enough to let me park the CRV in front of their house for three weeks. Jim drove me to St. Louis Lambert, about 15 mi and airport check in proceeded without a glitch. The Delta flight to Atlanta was fine, but there things changed somewhat.
The flight to London Heathrow was scheduled to leave at 10:50pm and all were on board the 767 when the pilot got on and informed us that there had to be another security sweep before he would take off. That meant all 300 of us on that big bird had to deplane and wait at the gate. Well, the sweep took over 2 hrs, and it wasn’t until 1:20 am that we were finally air bound. The pilot had announced three times during our wait that he wasn’t going to chance anything happening until he deemed the plane safe. This was obviously a precaution due in a large part to the Christmas day attempted bombing of a transcontinental flight in Detroit.
Because of this, we got into Heathrow (3:00pm London time) late which meant I was going to miss going to a London Baha’i Feast with my friend Ramin from my University of Illinois days. Although he and I had a chance meeting at the 2009 Green Lake Conference, we had a lot of catching up to do after 42 years and I emailed him a month or so ago and mentioned that I was coming to London and would like to see him. In subsequent emails he invited me to the Feast. A cell call from the airport connected us and we agreed to meet tomorrow, Monday, instead.
Took the train from Heathrow into Victoria Station where taxi took me to the Kensington Close Hotel. Had a small room, and very adequate, just as I like lodging to be when I travel…I don’t need luxury, just cleanliness and a good bed.
Following a supper at the hotel restaurant, it was to bed to get much needed sleep and recover from the jet lag.
A Spiritual Odyssey…Not Like Any Other!
- The Shrine of the Bab on Mount Carmel, Haifa Isreal
Welcome to this blog…and this is its first posting. After some effort and assistance from a very capable internet specialist, I able to now launch this blog, and hope you’ll enjoy the postings and photographs. It is very fitting that this is up and running at this time as I embark on this particular journey. (actually this is being composed in a hotel room in Tel Aviv, eight days after the trip began from St. Louis Lambert).
From February 6, 2010 through February 25th…London, Paris, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa.
The ultimate destination, nine days in Haifa Israel and its environs, the Word Center of the Baha’i Faith and the location of its most sacred shrines. This is called a Pilgrimage, something every Baha’i is to undertake at least once in a lifetime if financially and physically able. But I expanded the destinations, and the posting written about each place explains why.
This trip is unique. Of course it will rank right up there, in terms of adventure and spirituality, with trips to Nunavut in the Circumpolar Region of Canada to be among the Inuit, or Macy Nebraska, the Black Hills, or Arizona in Navaho land with my American Indian Baha’i friends.
Please read through each posting as you will, and feel free to add your comments.
Warmest regards,
Jim
